Shortly after opening, Renee Erickson’s beef-centric Bateau quickly established itself as a forerunner for excellent steak in Seattle. The menu takes a sustainable approach to meat and encourages guests to try new cuts of dry-aged, grass-fed beef they might not have seen before. Nothing goes to waste; the fat is used to fry french fries, and cuts not listed on the board are still utilized as part of the tasting menu or as specials; Bateau also supplies ground beef for burgers to a number of other Seattle spots, including Bait Shop and Spinasse. 

Tom Coss has been the butcher at Bateau since they opened three years ago. He started his ten-year career doing retail box cuts at Whole Foods, and from there he spent some time at Rain Shadow meats. His existing knowledge and desire to continue learning is evident while listening to him talk about his career. He’s someone who takes pride in his profession, and with good reason. Beef is the star of Bateau; so much so that guests can look into the picturesque window of the meat locker while dining. His job as butcher is arguably the most important in the restaurant, and the level of excellence it requires is nothing to scoff at.

I first met Tom two years ago while working at a neighboring bar. He’d stop in on his way home from work, and we’d talk about comics and obscure movies. Since then, I’ve been lucky enough to attend countless barbeques and potlucks where Tom the Butcher has been in attendance. Let me tell you, the guy knows how to cook meat better than anyone I know. So, when Tom recently offered to give me a tour and quick lesson in the meat locker, I jumped at the chance. 

The first thing you notice when you enter the meat locker at Bateau is the distinct earthy, nutty smell of dry-aged beef. The second is the temperature; at a chilly 33 degrees, I immediately understand why Tom told me to wear layers. The locker is small, with barely enough room for two. Large cuts of beef hang from hooks in front of us; behind us is a rack with dozens of steaks ready to be served, and shelves with smaller cuts still aging.

I watch Tom masterfully begin cutting into one of the larger cuts in front of us. The amount of terminology and skill that goes into being a butcher is impressive. I find myself quickly lost as he rattles off the names of different bones and muscles; it’s clear he’s been doing this a while. He cuts through the carcass with precision, and I think about how there’s no way it’s as easy as he makes it look. As he walks me through what he’s doing, I ask him about the dry aging process, and how a dry-aged steak differs from a regular one.

“Dry aged steak has a funky, beefy flavor profile,” he explains. “I feel stupid describing beef as beefy, but you eat a ribeye here versus one you get at the store or another restaurant, and you notice the difference. A lean piece of beef that hasn’t been aged doesn’t have a lot going on; you taste the butter, salt, and pepper, but the steak itself doesn’t have the same amount of flavor that it gets from being aged”. I think about the steak I ordered a month ago at the Cheesecake Factory and the one Tom brought over when we barbecued the other week, and I think I understand what he means.

He goes on to explain that the steaks they use are aged for a minimum of 21 days. Cuts like Ranch steak get aged longer to help elevate the flavor for fine-dining. Those cuts might age as long as 85 days. The longest Tom’s aged a steak was 133 days; once you get past 100 days, he explains that “the flavor goes from a funky blue cheese and walnut to more of a lactic quality”. While other types of meat like pork and even mutton can be aged as well, beef benefits the most from the flavor profile. 

At some point, we step outside of the locker so that Tom can grab some water and I can warm up. It’s only been twenty minutes and my hands are already getting numb. While we take a break, I ask Tom how much of the meat he butchers actually gets used at the restaurant. Sustainability is a huge part of Bateau’s brand, and I’m curious if any of it is ever wasted. Tom explains that there are four cuts not used for the board at Bateau: skirt, bottom round, eye round, and Sierra. These are still used elsewhere on the menu. In reality, the lack of waste is impressive. Certain cuts that are more rare (1 - 2 per cow) are priced at a higher price point, and staff encourages guests to try cuts they may be unfamiliar with. Items on the board go quickly and are sold by weight. As we walk back towards the locker, Tom tells me, “what you’re used to is not how you should be eating steaks. It’s not sustainable. We’re trying to get you onto a different program here. I want you to try something new”. I think he’s referring to the crappy Cheesecake Factory steak I told him I ate. We go back inside and I watch him hook back up the large carcass he was working on and take down the other-- this job isn’t for the faint of heart. By the time I leave, I have a newfound respect for the skill that goes into being a butcher, and an agreement to come in again to learn more.